Pandora’s Film

Great, you took the photo. Now what? -That’s where I come in.

Photography: The Gear October 29, 2008

Filed under: Photography — jbstone @ 6:50 am

There’s a black list of gear every photographer needs, which varies depending on who you talk to. So, if I had all the money in the world, here is what I would consider the ultimate “camera bag” (this would have to be Santa’s sack to all fit in one bag).

Camera body:
Go Canon or Nikon and don’t waste your money on anything else. These two companies dominate the industry and it becomes a challenge to have something less common, especially if you are looking for a job. I’ve heard that the East Coast primarily uses Nikon while the West Coast favors Canon. I’ve used both and I admit that I prefer Canon. While the quality is pretty matched, Canon is more popular where I live and the shutter release is quieter than Nikon, which is extremely important to me when I’m trying to be stealth (no invisibility cloaks on the market yet, so being quiet is the best I can do).
Two picks for Canon:
1dsmk3_586x225The latest and greatest, EOS-IDs Mark III. You can read about the features and specifications on Canon’s website. I love this model of camera bodies because it is designed for vertical photos. Rather than turning the camera and stretching your wrist in an uncomfortable position, there’s a second shutter release button on the side.

5dmark2_586x225For a slightly cheaper option, the EOS 5D Mark II. I’ve used this camera pretty extensively and I really like it. It doesn’t have the second shutter release, but I’m pretty sure you can get an attachment for it. The LCD screen is larger than older models and of course the quality is fantastic.

Other must-have lenses:
16-35
25-105
70-200
300
If super-close-ups are your thing, like photographing flowers, insects, rocks, whatever, you’ll also want a macro lens. Macro lenses bring into sharp focus tiny details that many lenses can’t pick up and focus on; sometimes even the human eye can’t detect its sharpness.

With any lens, if you can get an f/2.8, splurge for it. The quality of the lens is what makes for a clearer photo.

Those cover all the basics, for interesting fish-eye affects to capturing your french horn player in the marching band.

Flashes:
You don’t have to have a specific brand of flash. Flashes are universal, so just because you have a Canon camera, you don’t need a canon flash. This is probably the one area where it’s safe to cut-corners and reach out to a cheaper competitor.
You’ll want at least one flash with a bounce card (you can even make one out of cardboard and white paper and attach it to your flash with a rubber band), and a slave/transmitter so you can get the flash off your camera. When you can hold a flash away from the camera, the light will look a lot more natural and less harsh. For studio stuff, you’ll want at least two flashes, stands, transmitters, and umbrellas.

After you throw away your retirement fund on all that cool stuff, you’ll need a place to put it all.
page1bagA backpack is essential to keep it all safe and in one place. Bags are nice, backpacks are better for your shoulders. Even better, get a camera bag on wheels. Like the wheely luggage, it’s a muscle-saver. And if you want it all at your fingertips, I recommend something like the Think Tank. It attached around the hips and has compartments for everything. The bad part is that the basic belt is pricey enough and then each compartment is sold separately. Did I mention that photography is a really expensive hobby??? belt2sell_camera_backpack

And the stuff you should always have with you:

- 2 fully charged batteries

- extra memory cards

- lens cleaner and tissue

-shower cap or plastic bag (just in case you find yourself in a wet situation–you always want to be prepaired!)

 

Photoshop: Top Secret October 24, 2008

Filed under: Photoshop — jbstone @ 6:33 am
Tags: ,

I came across this video on Youtube and had to share. It’s a promotion for a training course that’s already done with, but the promotional video was too exciting to ignore. I think it is an amazing example of how limitless Photoshop really is. So, if nothing else, I hope you find this inspiring.

 

Photoshop: Easy border October 21, 2008

Filed under: Photoshop — jbstone @ 10:13 pm
Tags: , ,

This is a really fun and easy way to create a cool border for your photos to jazz them up and ready for printing.

1. Make a new blank document: 12×7 inches, 100dpi with a white background

2. Make new layer

3. Select the lasso tool (regular, not the magnetic lasso) and simply scribble a rectangle. Really, scribble.

4. Fill the selection with black using the paint bucket.

5. Open an image you are creating the border for.

6. Drag the black scribbly “border” over your image. Note, it will not look like a border yet. Stretch it out and/or rotate it so that it covers most of your image.

7. Double-click the image layer (background layer now) to make it a regular layer and drag it above the border. The border will disappear behind it now.

8. Option+click between the two layers to create a clipping group. Now your border will appear.

9. Create a new layer on the bottom (hold command+click the new layer icon in the layers pallet) and fill it with white.

10. Double-click on the border layer to add a drop shadow and adjust it to your liking. Done!

I jazzed up the photo and added some text for this corny, yet memorable photo!

 

Photoshop: Blending Modes Cheat Sheet October 21, 2008

Filed under: Photoshop — jbstone @ 5:01 am
Tags: ,
The background

layer 1

background
gradient

Normal mode

normal

Normal mode is the default. The colors of the two layers will not interact in any way, and it will display the full value of the colors in layer 1. What you see in the image window will look like this.

Dissolve

dissolve

Dissolve makes the lower layer take on the colors of the top layer, and how much depends on the opacity of the upper layer. The layer 1 opacity is set at 50% here.

Disolve only affects pixels with some transparency, which is why I lowered the opacity to 50% in this example.

Darken

dissolve

Darken compares each pixel value of the upper layer to its counterpart’s pixel value of the lower layer and chooses the darker of the two to display.

Multiply

multiply

Multiply darkens the lower layer based on the darkenss of the upper layer. No part of the image will get lighter. Any applied tone darker than white darkens the lower layer. White becomes transparent.

trans

Color Burn

color burn

Color Burn burns in the color of the upper layer with the lower layer. No part of the image will get lighter.

Linear Burn

linear burn

Linear Burn works like multiply but the results are more intense.

Lighten

lighten

Lighten compares the two layers pixel for pixel and uses the lightest pixel value. No part of the image gets darker.

Screen

screen

Screen brightens by lightning the lower layer based on the lightness of the upper layer. The result is always lighter, and makes it a good mode for correcting exposure in photos that are too dark.

Color Dodge

color dodge

Color Dodge dodges the lower layer with the upper layer, resulting in a lighter image. No part of the image will be darkened.

Linear Dodge

linear dodge

Linear Dodge works like screen but with more intense results.

Overlay

overlay

Overlay multiplies the light colors and screens the dark colors.

Soft Light

soft light

Soft Light will multiply the dark tones and screen the light tones.

Hard Light

dissolve

Hard Light muliplies the dark colors and screens the light colors.

Vivid Light

vivid light

Vivid Light will dodges or burn the lower layer pixels depending on whether the upper layer pixels are brighter or darker than neutral gray. It works on the contrast of the lower layer.

Linear Light

dissolve

Linear Light is the same as Vivid light but it works on the brightness of the lower layer.

Pin Light

pin light

Pin Light changes the lower layer pixels depending on how bright the pixels are in the upper layer. It acts like Multiply when the upper layer color is darker than neutral gray, and acts like screen if the upper layer color is lighter than neutral gray.

Difference

difference

Difference reacts to the differences between the upper and lower layer pixels. Large differences lighten the color, and small differences darken the color.

Exclusion

exclusion

Exclusion uses the darkness of the lower layer to mask the difference between upper and lower layers.

Hue

hue

Hue changes the hue of the lower layer to the hue of the upper layer but leaves brightness and saturation alone.

Saturation

saturation

Saturation changes the saturation of the lower layer to the hue of the upper layer but leaves brightness and hue alone.

Color

color

Color changes the hue and saturation of the lower layer to the hue and saturation of the upper layer but leaves luminosity alone.

Luminosity

luminosity

Luminosity changes the luminosity of the lower layer to the liminodity of the upper layer while leaving hue and saturation the same.

Soure: ©2003 Sara Froehlich and Northlite Designs
Good Thunder, Minnesota http://www.northlite.net/ps/blend.htm

 

Photoshop: Cast Shadow October 18, 2008

Filed under: Photoshop — jbstone @ 1:44 am
Tags: , ,

1. Open a new document, whatever size you want.

2. Create a new layer with a transparent background. In this layer, draw an object. I chose to draw a bird, which is actually a shape, not an object. If you go this route, you must make this shape into an object. To do this, select the layer with the shape and go to Layer -> Rasterize->Shape. Done.

3. Duplicate Layer 2 with the object.

4. Select Layer 2 again. Lock the transparency by selected the small checkerboard icon in the layers pallet.

5. Using the paint bucket tool, fill the object layer 2 with black

6. With layer 2 selected, go to edit ->transform->flip vertical

7. Drag the black layer down until the bottom touches with the duplicate layer.

8. Still with layer 2 selected, go to edit->transform->perspective. Now drag the corners to get the desired look you want.

9. Unlock the transparency (checkerboard icon). Then go to filters->gaussian blur. Try using about a 5.

10. Still doesn’t look right change the blending mode to multiply. If there is background color it will add it to the shadow.

11. Now lower the opacity of the shadow layer like to 70 or 80 (select the shadow layer and adjust the opacity in the layers pallet).

Your end result should look something like this: